Mthunzi's Paradise Vilage
After a bit of a slow start leaving for Swaziland, we got to the border at about 3pm. It sounds a bit odd but it's nice not being scared of black people anymore. The racial tension here is not as bad and everyone seems friendly.
This country is stunningly beautiful, it's all mountains. Right after we crossed the border loads of kids were waiting and waving at the car. I tried to take a polaroid picture to give to them but they ran away as soon as they saw the camera, shouting no no no! I thought maybe it was a rural African version of the soul stealing belief but it turned out they wanted to be paid to have their picture taken. They didn't realize it was a polaroid camera. So I didn't bother and we just drove away.
Swaziland is extremely poor. The AIDS epidemic here is completely out of control and life expectancy is 27. People here live on well under one dollar a day. But as a tourist I am yet to see any overt evidence of the crisis other than beaten up and small houses.
The place where Laura, Elmer and I are staying must be one of the coolest places I have ever been to in my life. It's 3 little huts made from mud and straw on top of a mountain. There is no electricity, although running water is available sproadically from a nearby spring. It's pit toilets, and the shower is just a shower head beside a thatched wall, it's very open, so you have to tell everyone not to come near when you go to wash yourself. But the view is spectacular, and it's a pretty unique experience stripping butt naked on top of a mountain and admiring the scenery while you're showering.
Most people here cannot afford electricity, so when night falls you can see the milky way galaxy stretching over your head. I have rolled out my sleeping bag in the middle of a field and will be spending the night under the stars.
This country is stunningly beautiful, it's all mountains. Right after we crossed the border loads of kids were waiting and waving at the car. I tried to take a polaroid picture to give to them but they ran away as soon as they saw the camera, shouting no no no! I thought maybe it was a rural African version of the soul stealing belief but it turned out they wanted to be paid to have their picture taken. They didn't realize it was a polaroid camera. So I didn't bother and we just drove away.
Swaziland is extremely poor. The AIDS epidemic here is completely out of control and life expectancy is 27. People here live on well under one dollar a day. But as a tourist I am yet to see any overt evidence of the crisis other than beaten up and small houses.
The place where Laura, Elmer and I are staying must be one of the coolest places I have ever been to in my life. It's 3 little huts made from mud and straw on top of a mountain. There is no electricity, although running water is available sproadically from a nearby spring. It's pit toilets, and the shower is just a shower head beside a thatched wall, it's very open, so you have to tell everyone not to come near when you go to wash yourself. But the view is spectacular, and it's a pretty unique experience stripping butt naked on top of a mountain and admiring the scenery while you're showering.
Most people here cannot afford electricity, so when night falls you can see the milky way galaxy stretching over your head. I have rolled out my sleeping bag in the middle of a field and will be spending the night under the stars.
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